Tuesday, 31 January 2012

perceptions of the way life used to be


or "13 of approxiamately 48"
or "What thinks you?"
or "My school, my principal, my vice principal and my fellow teachers"
or "What is it really like in SA?"

First of all, lets do a little thought experiment. Honestly think of ten things you knew about Korea before you started reading my blog. Say some stuff out loud (it's pronounced Teh-kwon-doe not Ty-kwon-doe), count them on your fingers.Think about whether or not you consider Korea to be prey to stereotypes and tropes. Think about whether any of the things you think might be purely out of ignorance.

In the beginning of the year I had the longest talk I have ever had with my principal. Her English is not very good and my Korean is not even worth mentioning so the grade four teacher was there to translate for us. The grade four teacher (the one with the secret child) has okay English, we can talk for a while without getting stuck but I still try to keep it monosyllabic. We were having lunch in the staff room, cause the kids all leave winter camp at 12:00 so the school doesn't offer them lunch, when the principal complements my nails and shirt (they match). This starts a two hour conversation that just blew my mind.

It started okay, she asked me if I am happy with my salary and my job. I explained that I'm happy that I'm getting paid a lot more than I would get paid in SA. Then she asked me if I was rich in South Africa, which led me to explain about the situation in South Africa. I explained about how we have lots and lots of poor people and the people who are rich are very, very rich so even though I am not in the rich group, I should be considered rich, and I consider myself rich because of how many poor people there are who are very, very poor. Then she said Korea is the same, which shows that she has no idea of how poor people are in South Africa, so I explained that people are still suffering from malnutrition because they cant afford to eat. She says that she doesn't understand that cause cant people just eat 'the fruit'. So I ask, what fruit? And she says, the fruit from the trees. The trees people! Why hadn't we thought of that...Africa! We live in Africa where fruit trees are lush and no one ever needs to starve. Breathe in, breathe out. Okay, so I explain that the fruit farms are owned by farmers and just taking the fruit would be stealing and that South Africa has the same 'buy your food' thing that Korea has. She gets it, and she says well then the government should feed people, and I just nod and explain that the government is trying.

Next she asks me if we have universities and if I went to university and I tell her yes I did. I also explain that I was privileged to go to university because not many South Africans are able to do so. She asks me why that is and I refer her again to the poverty and also the language barriers and the poor state of the education system and the gross inequalities that plague my country. She is most shocked at the fact that we have 11 official languages. To this she says, 'Your country will never be unified until you all speak one language, you should choose one so that your government can properly look after your people'. Really lady? Fo real, fo real? And you don't think we've thought of this? I tried to explain to her about languages being intricately connected to culture and having equal rights and equal value. I tried to explain that we have great minds dealing with these issues trying to find a solution. I tried guys, in my monosyllabic way I tried...

The thing is she says these things with the most sincere innocence. The innocence of the ignorant. No malice at all. She also told me that I would disgrace my family if I married before my elder sister and that I should wait for Petra to get married first. She said my mother raised me right and that I am different from other foreign teachers, and she appreciates my work ethic but it is unusual for a man to stay with a woman for so many years and not marry her, Sinclair is not really interested in me, she tells me. Does he have money, she asks, or is he after mine? Had I not doubted his character myself many times in our relationship, I would have been offended. But I checked and double checked and he's a good guy. He is in my mind another one who was raised properly, and thank the heavens he let his older sister get married before he did. A clear sign of good breeding.

This conversation was held in all seriousness over a cup of after-lunch coffee, polite smiles and bows and servings with both hands included. On the flip side, my vice principle is a lot more fun. On the last day of term last year, before  winter camp started, my co teacher comes into my room to tell me the kids are all leaving at twelve and the staff is going out for lunch; would I like to come along? Now, I am not obligated to go but the food is free and it would be impolite to refuse so I say yes, I'd love to join them. Even though I know I am signing myself up for over an hour of polite smiling while every one around me speaks Korean and laughs and gets drunk. Turns out, by "The staff is going out for lunch" my co-teacher actually meant the staff is "hopping on a school bus for a trip to the coast (three towns/an hour and a half away) whereafter we have a lunch consisting of a variety of raw/live ocean creatures. We will then look at some touristy things and take a staff photograph on the pier before returning back to school as the sun sets". Completely threw out my Friday evening plans. Any hoo, the fun game at the restaurant was 'make the foreigner eat things that are still squirming and watch her squirm herself', thank the heavens above for the delicious wine that accompanied the meal and the chance to tell this dramatic story that makes the trauma worthwhile. Throughout the meal, my vice principal, who's name I was told once but I have since forgotten and I'm too embarrassed to ask again, was drinking large amounts of Soju with the other male members of staff. He poured me a shot which I sipped on throughout the meal, so I was not at all drunk enough for the party on the bus to the coast. The vice principle bought us all drinks and chips. The chips were made of corn and the were small cone shaped things that were actually not too bad tasting (coming from someone who doesn't like chips). With his own chips, the vice principle placed one cone on each of his finger tips and walked up and down the isle of the bus making various staff members eat the chips from his fingers. He would just stick his finger straight at your mouth, I ate two before the grade six teacher intervened and asked him to stop. It was pretty hilarious for a completely inappropriate and uncomfortable situation. I also drank half a can of beer in one go, because the vice principle was playing a game called 'one shot' where if you don't finish your drink in one shot, he pours you another.

When we got to the place where we were gonna take the picture the vice principle was not in a good condition. So he sat on the floor, and the other teachers were grumpy about this but I thought 'shame give the man a break'  so I plopped down on the floor with him. After the picture was taken, the vice principle grabs  a scarf off of the school nurses neck and wraps it around his head, pulls me towards him and tell the photographer to take a picture of us together. The rest of the staff is laughing so I go with it, but after inspecting the image the vice principle is still dissatisfied and makes me give him the same style of head wrap as I am wearing, the one that's covering the fact that I have not brushed my hair in ages. So there we were, an old, thin, Korean man and young, chubby, South African girl, posing for a picture, arm in arm with matching headdress on the coast of a man made beach in Gunsan, South Korea. Oh the places I go! Who would have ever seen this coming?  Not I! He fell asleep on the route home and gave us all some peace. A member of the admin staff had to drive him home. I'd pay for a copy of that picture.

My co-teacher, the one I have had a rocky relationship with is leaving my school. No tears shed! And the person who has been my temporary co-teacher has been wonderful to me and so much more helpful. Things are looking up for 2012. The staff at my school will be changing drastically. Four teachers will be leaving and  five new teachers will join because we will have an extra grade five class. I'm very excited to meet new teachers, maybe some of them will have some more English and they can help me with my Korean. Apparently the grade four teacher really, really wanted to leave the school but she needs to get leave from the principle, a letter of release, and the principle doesn't want her to go. Begged and begged her to stay and won't sign a letter of release. The grade three teacher (my co-teacher) was in the same position, but she's leaving anyway. I don't think she was very happy in my school. I'm not sure she was meant to be a teacher. I know I wasn't meant to be a teacher for the rest of my life, but I'm not sure she wants to be a teacher now. Some people are, some people aren't, she's not. One time, at lunch I was telling her how tired I was cause I couldn't sleep the previous night, and how I really didn't feel like coming to school that morning, she told me that how she feels everyday. If that's not a sign that teaching is not for her then I don't know what is. Also, she shouldn't be a co-teacher and in her next job she probably wont be.

To end off, I would like to note that for all the dodgy things I thought about my principle after we spoke about South Africa I also stand in correction about a criticism I made of Korea earlier in my blog. It pertains to fan death, apparently it is a completely explainable phenomena and I just followed the hype of believing the worst of Koreans because it sounds so ridiculous. If you'd like to read up on the situation under which fan death is a danger please check out this link.

Now, I need to ask a favour of all my SA readers... please remind me what South Africa is really like. I have been gone so long and it has been cold for so long that I have been thinking back on my mother land with rose tinted lenses. I have completely romanticised South African summers, I imagine you all running around on the beach with the sun in your hair and joy radiating from your faces. I imagine good tans and cocktails and high fives while you relish in my misery... I imagine most of you trying to steal my man and laughing at the four layers of clothing I put on every morning. Tell me it isn't so, tell me you're happy but not so happy that I should waste my time being jealous of you... life is hard at -12 degrees Celsius. 'My East Asian Adventure' has slowly morphed into 'My Apartment Adventure'. So set me straight, with pictures.

I hope that no matter where you are you're well, safe, happy and thinking of me :-)
Liefde
Bashti Teacher

PS. Happy birthday Yumna!

Sunday, 15 January 2012

The 15/30 Pond


Today's chosen picture.

I have this fantastic idea. Every fortnight I will post a picture of the exact same place in Buyeo so that you can see how the weather and the seasons change the scenery here. The spot I have chosen is Gungnamji Pond. I have chosen it for two reasons, the first being that I love it, it is one of my favourite places in Buyeo. I love to just walk around it and sit on the benches and be. I take all my guests there, my sister has been there, so has my mum and all my friends who visit from other towns (I'll take you if you come visit me). The second is because it has historical significance in Korea and it's a mix of culture and nature that I think expresses a harmony in Korea that I really enjoy.

An aerial view of Gungnamji Pond and surrounding lotus ponds, I don't know how old the picture is. 

















The historical and cultural significance of the pond is that it is closely linked to one of the kings of the Beakje dynasty. Legend has it that is was both built by King Mu and it is the mythical birth place of King Mu. Korean history is full of these inconsistencies for three reasons; the Japanese stole, burnt or denied them access to a lot of their books and relics, myth and actual history are heavily intertwined in their culture and it's really hard to translate ideas and phrases to English. Even so, the story of King Mu is one of my favourite love stories of Buyeo. I love every part of the story, especially that Mu was fathered by a dragon that lives in the lake (you know how much I love dragons). Koreans are also proud of the lake because of the technology that must have been used to build it in 634 AD, I too am impressed. There is an English board with the story of King Mu as well as some information of the importance of the lake at the site, below I have placed a picture of the Kings story. 

The story of King Mu and his princess
Gungnamji translates to 'Pond in the south of the kings palace'. The word pond does not refer solely to the lake-like thing in the picture but also a series of lotus ponds that surround the lake. There is an annual lotus festival in Buyeo and the main event is held at this site.

I also found that there are lots of images of Gungnamji pond on the web, I am not the only one to have fallen in love with its spirit, I hope you will too. I have decided to post the picture every two weeks because it is often enough for the weather to change significantly but not so often that you will miss anything. If you think I should do it more or less often, please let me know.

By the way, I'm updating my blog from my favourite Buyeo coffee shop today:


Wishing you the best, pray that you are blessed with success, no stress and lots of happiness.

Destiny's child and Bashti Teacher

Friday, 6 January 2012

It's a new day, it's a new dawn, it's a new life and I'm feeling awful

or "Part 13 of approximately 48"
or "this email contains a little bad language, warn your kids"
0r "more snow and then some"


Happy New Year people of the Sun


I've hit the slump. Not right now, cause it's the middle of the night and I'm high on naartjies and coffee, but in general I'm not a Happy Chappie. It may be because of the holiday season away from friends and family, it may be the crazy cold but I've been grumpy for a few weeks now. I'm gonna try to explain without justifying but lets be honest, I'm pretty awful at that.


So, working out; not so much. Eating healthy; not so much. Bathing as regularly as I should; nope. Going outside to see the world; not really. Spending hours and hours in bed and on the internet: check! I've been feeling low and laying a lot, missing Sinclair and not in that really romantic way, just in a 'feeling sorry for myself and hating happy couples everywhere' way; yes, even you (if you're in a happy coupling). Korea is just not thrilling me, life is cold. And by that I don't only mean loveless and friendless and sad, it's actually effing cold, -15 and stuff. My life went from this:

to this:





My first snowball ever
And while snow is fun when you are looking at it and having fun in it and pelting your kids with snowballs mostly it's just slippery and cold. My eyes tear up from the cold on my way to school everyday, the walk to the bus is treacherously slippery, and cold. Gloves!!!! I have a love/hate relationship with gloves, you can do nothing with gloves on, wanna pay for the bus? Nope, you're not gonna get your money out of your wallet with the gloves on. Wanna scratch your head? No! Wanna use your smart phone? No! Wanna unzip your pants? No! Eat chips? No! Be happy? NO! NO! NO! And the cold...My lord it's cold. 

I clearly remember an afternoon in my Aunty Loretta's living room where I was complaining about the pain of having my hair rolled in and she told me "You have to suffer for beauty" and I thought F*** Beauty, I'll be ugly and happy anyday. And snow has just proved that I still feel that way. It's pretty I'll give it that, but through the tears it's hard to see. I really like the crunchy sound as I walk even though I feel like I'm ruining the perfect snow when I step on it. Bleh. The real death of me will be my electric blanket. It's so warm, it's so perfect! It loves me and I love it but it will be the death of me. Because of it I come home everyday and get into bed and I don't get out till the very last second, hence the occasional sacrificing of the shower...life's hard. I'm eating out all the time too, because my kitchen is on the balcony and it's cold. So I either order chicken and eat it in my bed while I absorb the internet or I eat out. Not by myself though, I hate eating out by myself. But ya, cooking is not gonna happen. I cannot stand barefoot in my kitchen without feeling like my toes are going to fall off. 
My footsteps


I have how ever bought an oven which I keep in my main living area. I had dreams of roast vegggies, roast chicken and cheese covered pasta dishes but in reality all I've made is chocolate brownies. I had a true moment of self discovery while making the brownies; turns out, the only thing stopping me from eating all the batter when I was younger was the presence of my mother or sister in the kitchen. On my first attempt I ate about half the batter, got a lot less brownies out of that batch than I should have.  Luckily I succeeded in only licking spoons and bowls with the next batch since I did promise to take brownies to school the next day and I didn't want to have to explain to my principal why there are so few and why they look so thin.

So between the pizza, the chicken, the brownies and the laying, I am not feeling very on top of 2012. But I'm gonna give it time, keep my fingers crossed. I still have so many blessings and the support of the people who care about me so I'm not even too worried about the bad mood. This too shall pass.


I hope you have all transitioned well into the new year. According to some Mayans and some people in Hollywood it might be our last one together, so lets make the best of it.


hugs and bed bugs
Bashti teacher 


PS. the bed bugs are for me, to encourage me get out of bed sometimes